India travels and a visit to a brothel

It’s about time for an update – I’ve been trying to do this for a few days now and have failed miserably.  Distractions are never limited.  Today I write from Mumbai, India.  Since Calcutta I have traveled to Kathmandu in Nepal, Delhi, and here.  Tuesday I will pack up my little bag once more and return to Bangalore for the final stint of my India travels. I still hate packing my bags.  That hasn’t changed.

It’s been quite the whirlwind.  Part of the reason I’ve put off this writing for so long is because I don’t know where to begin.  Do I write about visiting places that work with people of disabilities in Nepal, or about the random stranger on the plane who shared passionately his preferred life legacy that included photos of men lifting heavy weights and pulling cars with their..ya know, or what about the people who generously open their home to me with a week’s notice, never having met me, I could have been a crazy! 

So – I’ll just write about yesterday.

 Yesterday I visited a brothel for the first time.  I was confused whether or not it was a brothel or apartment complex and realized, it’s basically both.  The same place the women work, is where they sleep, eat and live.  In small boxed off rooms with open doors that never seem to close, and a dingy stool outside for the men who might be waiting.  It’s a strange thing to see.  It’s a sobering thing to see. Similar to the boys living on the train tracks in Calcutta, for whatever reason, walking through the hallways, it seemed every bit normal as it was strange.  Like this was just a normal part of life.  In reality, I was walking through their every day of normal life for the occupants of 90 rooms.

Each room had a wall dividing two beds that were raised to about the height of the stool I’m sitting on now.  When I asked about the kids, I was told the kids often sleep under those beds at night while their mother works.  We prayed over a baby that was sick with a fever, just shy of 30 days of life, this little baby girl had been given to a fellow worker by the mother.  What compassion to take care of someone else’s baby who was unwanted.  Unwanted because her father was a john, a random customer, never to be seen again.  We prayed for the baby because we were asked to, and all I could do was lay my hands on this precious little girl’s stomach, and bow my head before God and pray for light in this broken place.  I felt her little pulse and looked at her tiny frame – Lord, healing, more than just physical – now please.

We continued on to distribute Christmas invitations and a fight broke out between some women.  I could not understand a word, but I could see the anger as others gathered to watch two women yell at one another with disdain.  Just earlier I had seen two kids from a center in the red light area fight with one another, the staff explained that kids see violence in the brothels, and so it is hard to teach otherwise – patience and love are required. 

I’ve seen some of this patience and love acted out in creative ways in each city.  In Calcutta I visited two organizations that help women come out of the trade by teaching life skills and sewing, creating a community of support in the process.  Here in Mumbai there are other places that make jewelry and baked goods.  My current host is even working on the beginnings of an organization that would help with aftercare, having committed long term to a life here.  Still so much love is needed.  Still many woman are trapped in a chamber, and told the lie that they are worth nothing more than what their body can give.  10 days I’m told.  In the beginning, young virgin girls are broken in over 10 days with beatings and rapes that train the body to take the demands and the mind to unravel under the pressure and accept the lie that this is what they are made for.  In time – it becomes what I saw – a seemingly normal part of life to be accepted, a necessary means to an end– but it is not.  It’s injustice.

When will we all stand up and say enough?  Enough.  Enough killings – enough raping of people, minds, the environment.  I should rephrase that, we don’t need to just say enough, to just stand up - we need to walk towards justice.  We can sit and read about this stuff and write about it all we want, but the reality is that the same few minutes that it takes to click through article after article, opinion after opinion, there are millions of people subjected to everyday violence and evils.  There are people with a deficit of love.  For those of us who have been given much, much will be expected (Luke 12:48).  The more I travel and see good work that is being done – the more I am convinced that one of the greatest ways to fight injustice is to love well.  To love immeasurably– not counting the cost as lost, but something gained.  It’s all those paradoxical sayings that we were raised with coming to life.  “When I am weak, then I am strong,” “The first shall be last, the last shall be first.”  “Love your enemies” 

A life that seeks to embody these truths, is a life well lived.  Not easy but worth it.

There is much more I could write, but I wanted to be able to add some photos so without further to do – some photos from my travels.  Hope all is well – nearly a month left in this beautiful country.

Calcutta, India

Flower Market

Girls empowerment class at a center for kids in a slum area

making flowers 

Marble Palace

My host for three weeks, great times!

outside Mother Teresa house

Kathmandu, Nepal 

Met the woman above on the plane and the next day was visiting her center for people with disabilities.

riding through the streets, propane gas is limited with a fuel crisis going on

Visiting some temples

One of the unexpected gifts of the travels has been visiting friends in different parts of the world.  Pramil graduated a year earlier from me and now works with Samaritan's Purse in Nepal.

temples

Sundar Dhoka - amazing place, church started by the marginalized in Nepal

They walk through these and pray as they touch them.

Delhi, India

Center for kids with disabilities.  This woman named Pramila started Samadhan many years ago and it is thriving.

She wanted me to take her photo like this, it's her pose.

My lovely host in Delhi who along with her husband and two boys made me feel welcome and at home.

I met Tiya in Turkey and she was amazing at connecting me to people in the city over the short four days I was there.  Will hopefully see her again in Bangalore!

Mumbai (Bombay), India

First night here we had "friendsgiving" and sat on top of the roof.

 

One of my lovely hosts here (taylor) who agreed to let me stay without knowing me.  CHRISTMAS IS ALMOST HERE>

 One month left and can hardly wait to see family and friends back home for a bit before....the next steps.  :)

Slums of Calcutta

It seems normal when you’re there.  It almost feels like everyday life is supposed to be this way, until you analyze it.  Wait, were the toddlers really walking around naked?  Did I really see people bathing in public in a community bath?  Was the old lady really just sitting there spacing out and were those men really passed out sleeping (or drunk) in the little barracks like that?  Well, yes.  The four boys grabbed my arms and briskly walked with me to their drop in center.  These boys are special boys.  They meet each day for a free meal and then go to the drop in center to spend some time together, either resting, coloring, or playing games.  It’s a safe haven from the drug addictions that all too often consume their lives.

All four boys were barefoot as we walked for 10 minutes to the center.  “Auntie, papaya!  Auntie lock! Auntie watch!” The boys would yell out English words they knew with pride and excitement as we made our way through the crowds, dodging cars and all.  My hands were sweaty, but they never let go.  One boy on each side and another holding onto my wrist – we walked on.  I could feel my heart quicken with excitement, and I trusted them to lead the way through unfamiliar territory, a place they called home.  I was almost convinced these boys weren’t really drug addicts like they said they were, until I watched them reluctantly toss their glue into a plastic bag to be disposed of.  Of the 20 kids I was surrounded with, nearly all of the children were under the age of 15 and addicted to glue or alcohol.  The center serves as a place to provide safety and build relationships, and all boys and girls are provided with the opportunity to come clean through a rehabilitation home.  I was seeing, for the first time, a group of children for whom the heart of God breaks.

I came to Calcutta with no plans.  It was a dumb idea really, but planning that far in advance when you don’t know what exists in the city is difficult.  So I got off the plane and began to process the ludicrous idea that I could be THAT flexible without a schedule.  There is a first time for everything I guess.  I had an idea that I would like to visit Mother Teresa’s ministry, and had heard that the sisters might know of other good places to visit, so I trusted that idea at least.

By God’s grace (big emphasis here), my host who quickly became a friend connected me to a place that works all over the city in community development.  This is the most amazing work I have seen.  They have many different projects around the city and are truly incarnational as the centers are located within the slums, close to the people.  Many of the staff that work at the centers have gone through similar programs themselves or have had their lives personally touched by the ministry.  Over the last two years I have been reading about “transformation” but this place lives it.  The community is truly being transformed by their love and dedication to serve among the poorest of the poor. 

One worker invited me to watch him cut the hair of some of the boys that are addicted to glue; a cheap high for those living in slums or on the streets.  Scissors in hand, he explained that he once sat where this boy sat, he understands what this boy feels, he grew up here and was addicted to glue too.  He talked about how he now loves spending time with the boys and girls.  “They (the center) don’t ask me to cut their hair” he said, “I taught myself by watching the hairdresser cut my hair in a mirror.  I wanted to be able to cut these boys hair too.”  It was a simple act of love, and it was beautiful. 

Over these next two weeks I am excited to participate in some of their activities and to see the ways that simple acts of love can transform the lives of those the world would consider weak or poor.  God sees so much more.  This organization has caught a vision of love and transformation that is inspiring.  They get it, and they don’t give up on people.  I am humbled by what I see.  It is a one step at a time type thing.  So here is to keeping my mouth shut and watching the love of Christ unfold in the slums of Calcutta.  

Crying at the airport

It is a chill afternoon in the mountain town of Kodaikanal, India.  I've come here to spend the week with the family of a friend from Fuller and have been enjoying the peaceful and relaxing atmosphere.  The rainy afternoons allow me time to sit, be still, and think more deeply about all that has been happening.

I have now been in India for almost three weeks and am slowly adjusting to the changes.  The tastes, smell, language, colors, transportation, even method of showering, are all quite different and keep my mind active.

This is where the girls do homework and early morning prayer

India is a beautiful country, and each city has their own flavor.  I've been spending time in the outskirts of Bangalore, which is located in South India.  This city is known as the garden city as it is quite green.  During my first two weeks I stayed at a children's home; sharing a room with a girl from Myanmar who has dedicated her year to taking care of three girls from various parts of India.  We would spend afternoons talking and playing all together after school.  I am quite humbled by their spiritual discipline schedule.  Everyday they would wake up at 5 a.m. in order to start prayer and bible reading by 5:30 a.m.  Each evening they would also spend an hour reading the bible and in prayer together.  It felt like a special gift that I could be there to hear the prayers on their hearts and the ways that scriptures spoke to them.   I struggled to wake up so early and would be the last one at the table for morning prayer.  I'm curious to meet these girls in the future to see where God leads them.

A hindu temple that sits close to where we live.  We would walk laps around the land behind it.

There are many hindu temples here, which are colorful buildings with idols built all around up top.  In the morning I could see men praying to idols as they walk past.  It is my first time seeing people pray to idols in this way and I am learning more about the way that everyday life practices are intertwined with the hindu religion.  Even the cows in the streets are considered to be Gods.

I have purchased my tickets and will be traveling to three different cities over the next two months to see places that do work in community development or to meet people who have dedicated their life to serving others.  I can hardly believe this opportunity to see and discern what steps are next,

It is not without fear and difficulties though.   Within a few hours of arriving in India I found myself crying in a chair at the airport.  I had just argued with a lady over my next flight ticket which she said was non existent so I would have to pay for an extra flight.  My feelings of justice kicked in as I explained, I'd already bought the ticket, this was not fair, and I did not understand why they could not issue me the ticket.  She would not budge, "you have to pay," she demanded.  "Ok" I said, "how much," She responded with a ridiculous amount of rupies, something thousand, and so I asked, "how much is that in dollars?" 76 dollars.  My mouth dropped open and my eyes welled with tears.  I didn't want to pay, I can't just throw around money now.  To spare further embarrassment I told her I'd be back and stepped away to sit down and wipe my eyes.  Why was I crying?  I'm not a wimp, am I?  76 dollars is not the end of the world, suck it up.  But I couldn't.  I had arrived at 3 am, and had been to three different counters, waiting in line, only to find each time that my ticket was not there, maybe I was tired.

I sat there and observed the chaos around me as I pondered what to do.  I wanted to go home and sleep.  I saw a white girl chugging a yellow gatorade, looking all sickly.  She had probably been vomiting or something earlier to be chugging the drink like it was going to bring her salvation.  Fear seized me and I wondered why I had decided to continue on to India.  I felt so alone.  I felt weak and tired and ...alone...  What am I doing in India?  Tears continued to fall as I tried to process why in the world I was crying anyways.

The manager of the woman who I had been arguing with suddenly walked up to me quickly and explained he had found a way to get me a free ticket and rushed me over to counter to send my baggage.  He told me to make sure I booked my ticket next time (I promise I had), and said this time he would help.  What compassion.  I remembered praying as I entered the airport that God would provide people to help me through, I didn't realize I would need this much help, but I felt cared for in that moment.  Before I knew it I was on the flight to Bangalore, exhausted, alone, and a bit scared.  I guess I"m staying in India, not going home, I signed up for this.  Not giving a care what anybody thought,  I curled up against the window and fell asleep for the entire 3 hour flight over..     ,

One thing about being away from everything and everyone that you know is that it makes you experience all sorts of emotions as you truly examine your life and identity.  It makes you take a step back and see life from a new perspective.  It makes me realize just how much grace I need in everyday life.  Taking a step like this into the unknown made me realize, there really is no turning back, I've made my choice and I am here.  I have to learn how to be vulnerable and accept help from strangers (with discernment) and to embrace the changes in friendships and relationships over time.  It has made me grateful for what has been, curious about what will be, yet very attentive to the present moments as they quickly pass me by.  Presently, I am happy to spend this next week in a peaceful and cozy place before entering more unknowns in India.  I now think that I am in India for a reason, and it will take some time to fully understand why.  Hope all is well on your end.  I think of friends and family often.

Alison
p.s. i think another day I"ll add pictures/commentary from my trip through Europe.  I completely missed a post on that journey.

There are many light outages so we would always use candles, the girls put together this collage themselves

Bindu on top of their building

Indian Sari :)  So fun!

Again, light outage, and they wanted to document it

Visited this work, Chai316, a center by a College that provides a space for community and witness.

My lovely host for the first two weeks.  Has lived in India for over 20 years.  6:30 am walks with her around this field.

I shared a room with Gracie who came from Myanmar to study in India and has dedicated this year to living at the girl's home.

Goodbye Head Lice

This update will be quick, and not so beautifully written - but I feel it is important to write this evening because - it is my last evening in Turkey!

Tomorrow evening I will fly to India.  Can I just say wow.  WOW.

Life has been crazy.  Over the last two weeks I traveled to 5 different European countries and saw some beautiful things while processing a lot of what has been happening.  I even had a 10 hour train ride, and you think that would be a good chunk of time to become bored - but I had so much on my mind that it wasn't even enough time and by the end of the trip I hoped I had more time to be still.

I am waking up super early to pack.  I am not excited to pack, never have been.  It is not a skill I have.

I think it is noteworthy to say that I had head lice over the past few days.  That is right, little bugs crawling in my hair and eggs ALL over. It was not the best thing to happen on this trip.  Let me tell you though, God cares about me and another friend, because we were not alone, we both had the little critters in our hair and as we were quarantined - we spent days together.  With murderous agility, we went through one another's hair to kill all the eggs!  Hours, I have spent well over 15 hours going through hair over the past few days.  In fact that is nearly all we have done, as we have enjoyed our last days together, we have formed a licting bond. (get it? like "lasting" bond - but I made a pun).  That's right, got my master degree now, see what I can do with language now!?

It is quite hilarious when you think about it.  We have had "phases" of ridding the eggs - one of which was covering our hair completely in olive oil and leaving it in for the night while sleeping with "shower caps" (which we couldn't find and were actually food coverings) and tshirts wrapped over our hair.  My blanket that night was a towel so that we didn't infect anything.  Comments were thrown around like, "Wow Alison, your roots look just like an egg, did you know that!"   I have four white hairs, and when you think about it - it's quite amazing that God knows the number of hairs on our head because THERE ARE A LOT.

Today we did my last check late at night, and am happy to report, no eggs were found.  Which is great considering the fact that today we visited the family I most likely got them from to say goodbye and to my absolute horror, the kids placed a hat on my head within 5 minutes of sitting down.  All I could do was make a silly face, smile, and discreetly take it off my head.  What are the odds?  We have learned though, that sometimes, it is more important to love then to care about silly things like bugs in your hair.  I am so glad we visited them, it was a special time.   I will post photos and video later if possible.  For now, I must go to sleep.  Much to be done in a short time.

Happy to report that discernment is happening, my heart is happy, and my trust is growing as I spend more time learning about the ways that God works in the world.  I can feel this heart being molded, and sometimes it hurts, but most times its good.

Have a wonderful week - do not take healthy for granted either!! Forgot to mention that I spent a day very sick in Greece too, it was not fun.  I am still taking antibiotics over 10 days later to rid the illness.  Start taking my malaria pills tomorrow!!  So...yes - if you are reading this, and feel good - for me, and the others who are reading this and don't feel so swell - please, do something active for us.  :)

Also - if you are thinking that this update is a good justification for your avoidance of travels or takings some risks in life - I disagree with you - and can tell you firsthand that it is worth it.  The joy outweighs the pain by a long shot.  Perspective.

Miss the fam!

Alison

The nomadic week

I've been living like a nomad with my one backpack for the past week.  Last friday, the people I was staying with got sick with a highly contagious bacteria that has continued to spread to different people we know.  I've stayed in three different places and have two outfits, one blue shirt and one black shirt.  It's been quite the week.

Not because of that though - it's been quite the week because I have met many new families with children from Syria.  I have seen little bright and shining faces running around and have heard various stories of what it means to seek a better future.

I also spent three days of this week in a kitchen where I continued the basic cutting skills that I was taught in Bolivia - cooking in other cultures seems to be a theme that I do enjoy.  We cooked for over 200 one day!  That's a record for me.  I hope to cook in India too.

We are currently in finals week (MY LAST ONE), so this post will be less words and more photos.  I am including photos from a trip that we took to Cappadocia, an ancient city, a few weeks ago and then just random everyday life here.  Including some photos from the bazaar which is currently happening below me.

Lord willing, on Monday I will travel to Greece to learn more about work with refugees there and then will continue on to Germany and Switzerland to visit friends and family!  It will be a short stay in each place, but I am so grateful.  Turns out that flights from Turkey are extremely cheap, and my measly savings can afford these joy filled gifts.  I don't think I realized how significant it was that I could share a room with Claudia and Sharon during my last few months in California because those savings can now be used to visit friends and family!

Crossing the bosphorus at night is gorgeous

this morning when I stepped outside, the bazaar was happening

crossing the bosphorus 

Cappadocia - see the holes?  Those are entrances to where people lived in the BC times!!!!

A castle 

These are churches - people are lined up to enter in.  Inside are beautiful murals, we weren't allowed to take photos.  Persecuted Christians sought hiding in this area during the Roman Empire

There were indications of the Christians that used to live here with crosses

This was a door, the caves had trap doors that could close off in case of intruders

We were inside a HUGE cave that could host 5,000 people.  Crazy tunnels underground

Inside one of the rock houses (above ground one)

Over the land - Claudia pose attempt - it will get better, wait till India! ;)

Inside the cave - we went so deep by ourselves and shut off the light to sit in pitch dark

Syrian Refugee Children

On the ferry :)

My first Persian meal with friends from Iran - so delicious and like nothing I have tried before

Visiting the town where some refugee friends live

coming into Istanbul at night - the little lights are the ships in the water.  Ships in the night!  Got so excited.

Tourist part of town

English time

Another area that friends live in

I have slowly gotten to know the kids from this family as their mother gives me arabic lessons 

Roaming the streets and looking for a cake - I really enjoyed spending time with these kids 

Walking in the street, woman like to walk with their arms intertwined and I love it.  I need to get braver at taking photos - so many interesting things to see.